First stop was Sant’Ambrogio, which I loved even in the cloud. We’d arrived so early that the priest was still giving mass, so we waited patiently until he’d finished before exploring inside. Unfortunately, we didn’t realise that he was going to turn out all the lights, so our photos didn’t come out as well as we’d hoped. Drats! The cloud outside meant that we weren’t going to get any decent photos there either, so we decided to press on.
One metro stop later and we were at Cadorna, just a short walk from the entrance of the Castello Sforzesca . I’d seen this in the guide book and been tempted by the huge castle buildings, but even I was surprised by the sheer scale of the complex.
Four separate entrances lead onto the central cobbled courtyard – thank goodness I’d worn my comfy sightseeing shoes – and a number of museums such as art and sculpture from the middle ages through to the 18th century, frescoed walls and ceilings, stone masonry.
We’d been told off for taking photos before we’d made it past the second room, but there were just so many beautiful things that it was impossible to take it all in. I particularly loved the enormous tapestries and brightly coloured frescos – amazing to think that they are so old but seem to have lost none of their vibrancy.
One of the ceilings is an enormously detailed fresco by Leonardo da Vinci, but as with many of the more precious works, there were staff on hand to make sure that there is no flash photography.
The other masterpiece is Michelangelo’s Rondanini Pietà which is stunning, but the grey concrete background really does it no justice at all. There is also a fine art collection ‘Pinacoteca’, a musical instrument museum, an armoury and bizarrely an exhibition dedicated to Madame Butterfly. It was here that we came across our first Chinese wedding before heading into the gardens.
The Parco Sempione was really quite a disappointment. There were huge green spaces, but really nothing else apart from another Chinese wedding party, and another, and another! We began to wonder if it was the 8th as I know that is the luckiest number in the Chinese culture (thanks HSBC for the informative TV adverts), but as it was the 6th, we couldn’t understand it. We passed the Arco della Pace at the back of the park which is similar to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, and headed up the Corso Sempione for lunch.
Dish of the day was noodles with fresh vegetables but I was also tempted by the Bresaola (dried salted beef) with parmesan, rocket and lemon. It was just too difficult to choose so in the end we ordered one of each so we could share!
After lunch we made our way back skirting the Parco Sempione which is when I spotted the aquarium. I absolutely love aquariums, even if they are fairly naff, so I was delighted to find that not only was this one free, but there was a friendly octopus who came to say hello!
Fortunately we’d had the sense to book ahead to see ‘The Last Supper’. The whole rigmarole seemed a bit OTT to me, but then I’m not a real art freak so perhaps that’s why. They only allow 25 people through at a time and you’re allowed to stay a maximum of 15 minutes. There are a series of automatic doors and security is tighter than most Italian airports!!
As we weren’t allowed to take photos (and we couldn’t cheat!), we decided to buy a postcard as a souvenir but the price in the gift shop and the silly doors that trapped me half in and half out, put us off. Just outside is a street trader which was less than half the price, but we spotted a stationary shop almost opposite in the via Ruffini where we ended up paying just 0.20€ per card!
Our guide books told us that most visitors see the Cenacola Vinciana (The Last Supper) and completely miss the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie just next door – what a shame as this was another highlight of my trip.
What I really loved about this church were the decorations. I’m not a big art fan, but I do love frescos and arches, so I was in hog’s heaven. This was another one where we were there on the dot of 2:30pm when the church opened, and just in time for them to turn off the lights!!
This church did have an added attraction in my view which was a priest all dressed in white who greeted us with a warm smile and sat himself down in the centre of the church so that people sat and chatted with him. Sadly, he spoilt the moment by picking his nose, but I guess they are only human after all...
Having grown up in the UK and now living in France, crossing the road is a constant trial as I never know which way to look. Trams complicate this problem further, but I was fascinated by the old fashioned orange and yellow contraptions. We tried for ages to get a decent photo and eventually I shouted out ‘I see something orange’ which prompted the woman next to me to smooth down her badly dyed orange hair self consciously – oh dear.
There was just time for a spot of shopping in the non-designer Corso Buenos Aires before we settled at a table at the bar Cin Cin for an aperitif. OK, so the setting wasn’t the best, but it was a good spot for people watching and I was glad to rest my feet. Our drinks arrived with some crisps and olives to nibble on, but we also discovered that there was a buffet inside that was included with the cost of the drinks, so the 7€ per drink didn’t seem so bad after all.
We’d spotted a traditional style osteria just opposite Sant’Ambrogio so we headed back there for dinner. They were fully booked so this is one to book in advance, but we must have looked quite sad as they managed to squeeze us in if we were happy to eat quickly before the next guests arrived.
We chose the gnocchi al Gorgonzola (little potato dumplings with a cheese sauce - a personal favourite) and the tagliatelli al funghi porcini (pasta with Porcini mushrooms). Both dishes were so delicious but after trying a few bits and bobs from the buffet and then eating pasta, we were well and truly stuffed!
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