LOT & DORDOGNE - Cahors

Marseille to Sarlat in one go is about 6 hours, so I knew I’d want to break my journey en-route. My first stop was for coffee and a croissant at about 10h30, and then I pushed on through to Cahors which had been recommended to me by Florence. At first sight, I wasn’t that impressed, but once I’d parked, I quickly realised that I’d skirted the edge of the town which was lovely.

Cahors is one of those places that really changes as soon as the sun shines, so it was a shame that the weather was a bit iffy – warm but cloudy spots. The main sights are well but discreetly marked, so I managed quite happily without a map. My first port of call was the Cathedral, which was beautiful, but unremarkable except for two things. The first was the cloister which was one of the most beautiful I have seen.

The second was the garden at the back of the cathedral where there is even a wicker nun to illustrate how the gardens would have been tended in times gone by. It was whilst reading the sign about the cathedral garden that I realised that it was actually just one of many gardens on show this weekend in and around the town.

I discovered a nice little tableau close by – I’m still not sure if the blue motorbike was part of the props or just someone inconsiderately parked!



One of the things I enjoyed most was just wandering through the streets which were full of people and interesting little boutiques. There was an indoor market for fruit, vegetables, artisanal bakers, butchers and cheese, and this is obviously a popular wine area as there were also ‘Maison des Vins’ everywhere.

By pure chance my visit coincided not only with the garden exhibition, but also with market day where you could find almost anything, and also a day of song and dance at one of the bars/cafés tucked away in a side street off the main square. The street was filled with balloons, people singing and families enjoying the show – what a treat!

I still had a way to go, so at 17h, I decided to press on. Little did I know that there was still more to see and do even in the car park!! I’d parked in the underground car park at the site of the old amphitheatre, which had joined in the garden celebration by decorating the exposed remains in the style of a Roman garden. From here my plan was to head straight to Sarlat, but when I saw the sign for the Pont Valentré, I couldn’t help myself, so ignoring the very insistent GPS lady, I headed out to the bridge.



The sun was in just the wrong position to get the shot I really wanted, but I managed to make do and get something I was happy with. The bridge itself is seriously impressive and it is worth taking the time to walk across. The views over the river are superb and I found myself imagining the sound of horses hooves racing over the cobbles.

My one regret is that nearly all my photos now feature other people also taking photos!

DORDOGNE - La Boiseraie, my gite!

When I first saw ‘La Boiseraie’ on the internet, I really liked the look of it; wooden beams and floors, exposed brickwork and in a nice quiet area just a few minutes from the medieval town of Sarlat-la-Canèda – what more could I ask for!



I arrived early evening after a long day driving and sightseeing, and was welcomed by my new friend Holly, a spaniel that looked like she’d had her hair highlighted! While Holly lay on the floor to have her belly rubbed, David showed me to my new ‘home’ which was even better that I’d hoped. There was the small matter of having to climb up the ladder onto the terrace to get in when the lock jammed, but coming from Corsica I am used to life’s little inconveniences!



I’d forgotten to ask at the time of booking about any outside space as this is something I am used to at home and would really miss on holiday, but I was delighted to find a nice big terrace overlooking the garden. It was while eating dinner here on the first night that I met my second new friend of the day – Cooper the ginger cat!



On Friday evening, David invited me to a BBQ with Francoise, Magda, Francoise’s son Nicolas and two of his friends. We had homemade tapenade and fois gras to start, followed by a delicious leg of lamb and superbly cooked potatoes dauphinoise – yum! After dinner, they went for a stroll in Sarlat, but as I had an early start to catch my ferry I decided to pass. What a fabulous end to my stay in this beautiful area.

DORDOGNE - Les Eyzies-de-Tayac

After a very comfortable first night at ‘La Boiseraie’, I was up and out at the crack of dawn – well 9am anyway! I had allowed plenty of time to get to my first stop of Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, as I hadn’t realised how close everything is in this area – I had obviously chosen my base well. This little town like many in the area is built into the overhanging rock which adds to its charm.



Sadly, the day had started out a little on the cloudy side and typically the sun was in completely the wrong place for the photo I wanted, but I wandered down to the river and discovered a very ornamental town hall instead!

There is a little path than runs along the river here and I bumped into a couple out on their Sunday morning bike ride, but had to smile because all I could hear as they passed was the lady puffing and complaining about the hill (it was completely flat as far as I could see!) and the man following behind saying ‘oui mon cherie, t’as raison’ (yes darling, you’re absolutely right!). A quick pain aux raisons from the bakers and I was on my way again.

DORDOGNE - La Madeleine, troglodyte village

My first real site was to be La Madeleine, one of the many troglodyte dwellings in the area. As I arrived, the forested parking area gave me the impression of something out of Lord of the Rings.



I could see the remains of the château from here and I was glad that this came towards the end of the visit as I felt sure it would be one of the highlights, but in fact it was the chapel that captured my imagination.



Most of the site is now in ruins except for the church whish seems to somehow have survived intact, including the stained glass window!



The view of the river from here was also gorgeous, and I was lucky that for the time being the cloud had shifted. I suspect that the rock must be particularly porous/soft as the whole valley is dotted with 22 similar sites which mainly take advantage of the ‘abri’ or huge natural ledges in the rock face.

DORDOGNE - La Maison Forte de Reignac

When I was researching the area, this was one of the places that really caught my eye, and I wasn’t disappointed in the least. It is incredibly difficult to get a good exterior photo as like the troglodyte dwellings, it is actually built high up in the rock face, but looks just like any normal house when you’re standing in front of it.

The visit starts on the ground floor with the kitchen which was an odd mix of rough stone walls and furnishings that we still see today in Corsica! There was a little round hole which looked out to the gate and at first I thought it was just a look out point or mini-window, but then I spotted the gun on the wall above – mystery solved!

The next room was a large room which was in a completely raw state and was home to some interesting exhibits such as animals bones found on the site and their uses, primitive spears for fishing and hunting, armour, ornamental carvings and even skulls showing the progression from Neanderthal man up to more recent times. There were even some clothes that looked better made than some you can buy these days (mentioning no names of course!)

This room leads into the main salon which again was more opulently furnished and reminded me of many of the older French châteaux that I have visited. There was a fire in the grate which helped take the chill off – it’s no surprise that modern houses are NOT built into rocks.

Steps lead to the upper floors where there was a mixed bag from bedrooms to dungeons and chapels. The comparison between the bedroom of the Duke of Reignac (tiny and sparse) and the Duchess (comfortable and decorative) was really apparent, and in the dormitory the beds were lined with fern leaves. Legend has it that those who sleep on fern leaves are more inclined to become athletes. As the dormitory was used for children, soldiers and/or servants, I wasn’t quite sure what to read into that.

There was also a torture room and dungeon which bizarrely were places next to the chapel. Stairs led up to the first terrace and then again on up to the upper terrace where the Alchemists house is located. This room holds all sorts of bizarre animals and objects, but perhaps the most intriguing of all were a large black bear and a crocodile.

What could the occupants possibly have wanted with a bear and a crocodile, and why keep them in a cave at the top of the house??

The visit ends – as usual – at the gift shop, but even this was beautifully arranged and offered a good range of local produce as well as the usual plastic knights and soldiers. I was tempted by some syrop de cocliquot (poppy syrup) which is absolutely delicious as a kir with white wine, but fortunately I managed to exercise some self control.

After the gift shop is a further room which currently houses an exhibition of torture through the ages. This is not one for kids. Having seen the exhibits and read the information panels, I came away feeling quite disturbed.

DORDOGNE - La Roque St. Christophe

At the Maison Forte de Reignac, I was told that my entry ticket entitled me to 1€ off the cost of entrance at the Roque St. Christophe. The two places are only a few kilometres apart, so I quickly decided that would be my next stop.

Like La Madeleine, the Roque St. Christophe is on the 22 troglodyte settlements dotted along the Vallée de Vezère, but even at first glance you realise that it is much bigger. Classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, the ‘village’ is a staggering one kilometre long and 80 metres high.

The visit starts with some caves which would have been occupied by tradesmen of the day, and then a passageway leads through to the village behind where the ordinary people lived amongst other craftsmen such as the forger. Little of the original structures remain, but two models are in place to see how the village would have looked from the outside.

After the village is another section which is clearly more modern (in middle-ages terms anyway!). Here you can see early examples of armour, spears and other weapons. Leading on from the arms room is the fortress kitchen, and the dead animals hanging up looked horribly real!

As the visit heads back to the visitor centre, there is a another cave with bronze age artefacts and a skeleton, and another dating back even further with a tableau depicting Neanderthal man battling a bear – what is it with these people and bears!

By now the sun had emerged and it was nearly lunchtime, so I took a quick look at the menu at the snack bar. This was a nice setting just next to a pond with ducks, but as I’d had a late breakfast, I decided to bypass the café and head back to the car for my next exciting adventure!

DORDOGNE - Saint Léon sur Vezère

I must have read about Saint Léon sur Vezère somewhere as it was on my ‘to do’ list, but I wasn’t really sure why, so I was delighted with my first glimpse of this pretty little riverside village.



I parked the car and headed straight down the river where I could see canoes for rent (no chance!), and a sign offering lunch on the grass in the shade of the church – perfect!



‘La déjeuner sur l’herbe’ turned out to be a combination of gift shop selling post cards and regional produce, and tiny café/snack serving a small selection of regional platters.



The church itself was fairly simple, but the little square in front was charming, and could have come straight from the pages of an Agatha Christie novel set in a 1920’s English village.

The few restaurants in the village were busy and all I could hear were English voices, which spoilt it for me a little bit, but this is such a beautiful spot, who can blame them.

DORDOGNE - Montignac

I wasn’t sure if I could be bothered to drive up to Montignac, as there were still so many other things I wanted to fit in, but as with most other places I’d visited, it turned out to be much closer that I’d expected and I was glad I hadn’t missed out.



Montignac turned out to be one of the Dordogne towns of my imagination, and even tempted me to look in the window of one of the many estate agents, but only for a second! There was a pretty square where the bright blue shutters of the yellow sandstone houses contrasted with the vibrant pinks and reds of the potted geraniums, and a couple of interesting antiquey type shops such as the ‘Au Parisien Chic’ which was selling everything we Brits think of as typically French, and the French can’t seem to offload to us fast enough!



Lunch was a simple affair of a goats cheese tart and salad at the Bar du Commerce whilst I watched them set up the fun fair for later, and then I wandered through the main street and down to the public gardens which were really peaceful.



I suspect I was lucky to be visiting on a Sunday as the town was still relatively busy so I imagine it might be tough to find a spot to park in the peak season

DORDOGNE - Saint-Amand-de-Coly

I was actually on my way to the Château de Commarque when I passed the sign for Saint-Amand-de-Coly and the fortified church, and decided to stop by.

The village itself was tiny and I managed to walk through it in just a few minutes. The abbey is impressive more for its size and the thickness of its walls than anything else, as it is fairly simple inside. Priority is given to pedestrians which means there is not much traffic except for residents, so you can explore on foot.

The houses were pretty and reminded me a little of Perouges but on a much smaller scale. I never did find the tobacco drying house and the information point was closed, but there was another shop selling regional produce such as foie gras and various oils and wines, so it was a nice detour.

DORDOGNE - Tamniès

One of France’s ‘ville fleuri’, Tamniès is perhaps one of the most flowered villages I think I have ever seen! Even the town hall is covered, and the church has a little garden full of flowers at the front.



The village is absolutely miniscule, but every building is a tumbling mass of geraniums, ivy, mallow and roses to name but a few. I was seriously miffed that the sun was in the wrong place for the shot I really wanted, but luckily every way I turned was a pretty scene.

Below the village is the Etang de Tamniès lake where there were people taking a stroll or just sitting admiring the view. The only commerce I could find was a restaurant and a potter – I wonder where they do their shopping…

DORDOGNE - Château de Commarque

For some reason, this didn’t actually appeal that much at first glance, but I’m glad I made the effort. Although clearly marked on the map, it is actually tucked away down a tiny road and took me a while to find. The car park is about 600m from the start of the visit, so be prepared. There are also LOTS of steps here so not one for the tiny tots or anyone with any kind of walking difficulties.



The de Commarque is actually in ruins, which I hadn’t fully appreciated, so the best views are from the grounds below, or from the top looking out or down as the rooms themselves don’t really have a lot to offer.

There is an interesting chess board cut into the stone in the main building and I could just imagine the hours whiled away sitting here contemplating the next move. There are also some really lovely views of the ochre coloured château on the hillside opposite.

By the time I’d climbed almost to the top (I chickened out of going right up to the top terrace), the sun was out and it was really hot. I was almost dehydrated by the time I got down to ground level and still had 600m walk back up to the car park so it was lucky that the little ticket hut sold cold drinks!

DORDOGNE - Les Cabanes de Breuil

I really loved the Cabanes de Breuil. I have seen a similar type of thing at Gourdes in Provence but this one felt much more intimate, perhaps because it incorporated as part of a working farm with geese and chickens that run freely.

The Cabanes themselves are absolutely beautiful – perhaps more so because of their sandstone colouring. When I visited in June they were surrounded by lavender, rosemary and various herbs and fruit trees which were all labelled for children as part of the educational aspect of the site. Some of the chickens had tiny chicks and the kids were mesmerised as they all ran around in a little group.

Inside, the Cabanes were tiny and it made me wonder about the size of the Benedictine inhabitants leading up to the 15th century, and later the Perigordian artisans who inhabited them during the 18th and 19th centuries.

Some have been decked out with artefacts of ages all of which is explained by the accompanying guide. However, the most exciting part of the visit is where you can try to build your own at the end – they have provided the stones and what it should look like, but no one had managed it so far…

DORDOGNE - Cingle de Montfort

When I set off this morning, I wasn’t entirely sure where I was going, but luckily my host David was there to point me in the right direction. He suggested a tour starting with the Cingle de Montfort not far south of Sarlat, which is beautiful view point over the château and village of Montfort, then on to Domme, La Roque-Gageac, Beynac-et-Cazenac and either the Château de Castelnaud or the Château des Milandes which was once the home of Josephine Baker and is now perhaps better known for its falconry displays.

I would probably have got to the Cingle de Montfort quicker if I’d listened to the GPS lady when she kept telling me I was going the wrong way, but it did get the day off to a nice start with an interesting little countryside tour. The Cingle de Montfort is actually a couple of minutes drive out of the village, but personally I preferred the views as you get up close and personal with the Château, and wished I’d stopped to take more photos of the amazing rock formations which form the foundations.

DORDOGNE - Domme

Domme was one of my ‘must do’s’ for this trip and I was not disappointed. I got slightly disorientated coming out of the car park on foot – had I turned right, I would have been on the pretty main square in just a minute, but actually it turned out well because I got to see some beautiful parts of the village that I might have otherwise missed.

I started off at the aptly names Porte des Tours which I assume would have been the main point of entry to the village. These days it is still only wide enough for one car to pass through at any given time which was scary when you see the speed at which some of the locals where whizzing in and out – it made me quite homesick for Corsica!



I’d planned to take the ‘Domme Passport’ which gives entry to the four main sights; the Grotte (cave), The Bastide Royal & Graffiti Templiers (never found those) and the l’Oustal (museum of arts and traditions, but once I found the tourist office, I realised that I’d probably have more fun just exploring the town on foot.

The tourist office issues a badly photocopied map of the town with a suggested walking route to see the sights. It starts at the Belvédère de la Barre where there is a fabulous view of the river, and then takes you on a gentle stroll along the Promenade des Falaises (cliff walk) to the public gardens. I could see that there was a windmill nearby, so I followed my initiative and managed to find it, although it did look a little sad with its skeletal sails.

From here, I headed up past the Couvent des Augustins - there wasn’t much to see – to the Place de la Halle where I was able to visit the church, take a few photos and buy Guillaume a crocodile magnet with springy arms and legs.

It’s also the starting point of the tourist train which offers a 20 minute tour of the village with commentary, but as they’d nearly run me down earlier in the day and I’d seen pretty much everything I wanted on foot, I decided to pass this time.

All in all, Domme was stunning and well worth the visit. The one small gripe is the parking situation because the car parks in the village offer only 3 options of an hour for 1€ (not long enough), 4 hours for 3€ (perhaps too long for me) or a whole day at 5€. The high parking charges were what prompted me to approach a young family and offer them my ticket, but my smugness at beating the system was short-lived as I accidentally decapitated the crocodile magnet in the process. Ggggrrr!