DORDOGNE - La Maison Forte de Reignac

When I was researching the area, this was one of the places that really caught my eye, and I wasn’t disappointed in the least. It is incredibly difficult to get a good exterior photo as like the troglodyte dwellings, it is actually built high up in the rock face, but looks just like any normal house when you’re standing in front of it.

The visit starts on the ground floor with the kitchen which was an odd mix of rough stone walls and furnishings that we still see today in Corsica! There was a little round hole which looked out to the gate and at first I thought it was just a look out point or mini-window, but then I spotted the gun on the wall above – mystery solved!

The next room was a large room which was in a completely raw state and was home to some interesting exhibits such as animals bones found on the site and their uses, primitive spears for fishing and hunting, armour, ornamental carvings and even skulls showing the progression from Neanderthal man up to more recent times. There were even some clothes that looked better made than some you can buy these days (mentioning no names of course!)

This room leads into the main salon which again was more opulently furnished and reminded me of many of the older French châteaux that I have visited. There was a fire in the grate which helped take the chill off – it’s no surprise that modern houses are NOT built into rocks.

Steps lead to the upper floors where there was a mixed bag from bedrooms to dungeons and chapels. The comparison between the bedroom of the Duke of Reignac (tiny and sparse) and the Duchess (comfortable and decorative) was really apparent, and in the dormitory the beds were lined with fern leaves. Legend has it that those who sleep on fern leaves are more inclined to become athletes. As the dormitory was used for children, soldiers and/or servants, I wasn’t quite sure what to read into that.

There was also a torture room and dungeon which bizarrely were places next to the chapel. Stairs led up to the first terrace and then again on up to the upper terrace where the Alchemists house is located. This room holds all sorts of bizarre animals and objects, but perhaps the most intriguing of all were a large black bear and a crocodile.

What could the occupants possibly have wanted with a bear and a crocodile, and why keep them in a cave at the top of the house??

The visit ends – as usual – at the gift shop, but even this was beautifully arranged and offered a good range of local produce as well as the usual plastic knights and soldiers. I was tempted by some syrop de cocliquot (poppy syrup) which is absolutely delicious as a kir with white wine, but fortunately I managed to exercise some self control.

After the gift shop is a further room which currently houses an exhibition of torture through the ages. This is not one for kids. Having seen the exhibits and read the information panels, I came away feeling quite disturbed.